Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio
What are some of your favorite places in Venice, the ones you’ve gone back to again and again?
One of my favorite churches is I Gesuiti up by Fondamente Nove. When I first went there, the floor was as wavy as a fun house, but since then it’s been restored to flatness. The green and white inlaid marble columns, pulpit, steps, altars, and even draperies boggle my mind. Every few years I return to Museo Correr to visit Jacopo Barbaro’s wood block of 1500 Venice and say hello to the portrait of Maria Boscola. I also return often to the cemetery island of San Michele. On a hot day, it offers cool shade, entertaining lizards, and deafening cicadas. I’ve explored the many sections to find famous and not so famous graves and ponder the stories behind people’s lives. I also make a point of going through the Rialto market to see the vibrant rainbow of fruits and vegetables and the silvery, glistening fishes. In the summer, I love to hang out at the sagra at Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio, with the tombola, cheap wine, and high-spirited music played by local bands, with the crowds singing along. And I haven’t missed the last six exhibits at the Fortuny, designed by gifted curators and housed in one of my favorite palaces. I can sit there for hours.